Almost every backcountry trip I've ever been on started with a map. When I was first figuring out how to travel in the backcountry in New Hampshire's White Mountains, those maps came from the Appalachian Mountain Club. These days if I'm looking at a map there's a 50% chance it's on a screen: Hillmap or Google Maps on my laptop, or a GPS app displaying a USGS quadrangle on my phone.
If I'm looking at a paper map of the Sierra it's pretty much guaranteed to be a Tom Harrison map. I think the first map of his I used was for Joshua Tree National Park. They're available everywhere in the Eastern Sierra (including some gas stations) and they're much more usable than USGS quads or National Geographic maps. The Atlantic has a short interview with him on their website right now.
Showing posts with label Joshua Tree. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Joshua Tree. Show all posts
March 3, 2016
October 22, 2014
Taping For Crack Climbing
I'm smack in the middle of my yearly October rock climbing vacation (or Roctober, best spoken like an enthusiastic classic rock DJ). I've been climbing and catching up with friends old and new at some great locations, including Red Rocks, Zion, Indian Creek, and The Black Canyon.
I'm also learning a lot. As usual I'll spend the most time in Indian Creek this Roctober; I'm writing this from Moab's excellent public library. Indian Creek always teaches me a lot about crack climbing and trying hard. Another thing I'm learning on this visit is how to tape my hands.
Taping wasn't really something I saw climbers doing a lot when I was learning to climb in New Hampshire. Over the years I tried making tape gloves a few times, but they always took a long time to make, never lasted more than a pitch or two, and usually made the climbing harder. Climbing on the sometimes sharp rock of Joshua Tree taught me that "milking" the jams always led to bleeding and that it was best to put the hands or fingers (or more) in the crack and accept the jam for what it was. I still rarely use tape. After a few weeks in the Creek I usually have my share of gobies, but they've never been a huge problem.
I recognize that I am in the minority here. For most climbers, crack movement does not come naturally, and taped hands are a very effective "training wheel" when learning different sizes. I've come to see that as a guide it benefits me and my clients if I know a great taping method. I did some research before Roctober began and was looking for a method that didn't take a lot of time or tape, was easy to remember, and didn't change the size of my hand too much. This last one was a problem I've always had with the reusable tape glove.
The best method and tutorial I've found was by crack master (or mistress?) Steph Davis. She writes about it on her blog, and is in a great instructional video. She advocates for 1.5" wide tape, but I've had good success with 1". As with learning anything new, practice is important, and the best place to practice might not be at the crag right when it's your turn to climb. She's also spot on with her recommendation of the Mueller Europtape. It can be found at climbing shops here in Moab and also at Eastside Sports in Bishop. If your local shop doesn't carry it, they should.
I'm also learning a lot. As usual I'll spend the most time in Indian Creek this Roctober; I'm writing this from Moab's excellent public library. Indian Creek always teaches me a lot about crack climbing and trying hard. Another thing I'm learning on this visit is how to tape my hands.
Taping wasn't really something I saw climbers doing a lot when I was learning to climb in New Hampshire. Over the years I tried making tape gloves a few times, but they always took a long time to make, never lasted more than a pitch or two, and usually made the climbing harder. Climbing on the sometimes sharp rock of Joshua Tree taught me that "milking" the jams always led to bleeding and that it was best to put the hands or fingers (or more) in the crack and accept the jam for what it was. I still rarely use tape. After a few weeks in the Creek I usually have my share of gobies, but they've never been a huge problem.
I recognize that I am in the minority here. For most climbers, crack movement does not come naturally, and taped hands are a very effective "training wheel" when learning different sizes. I've come to see that as a guide it benefits me and my clients if I know a great taping method. I did some research before Roctober began and was looking for a method that didn't take a lot of time or tape, was easy to remember, and didn't change the size of my hand too much. This last one was a problem I've always had with the reusable tape glove.
The best method and tutorial I've found was by crack master (or mistress?) Steph Davis. She writes about it on her blog, and is in a great instructional video. She advocates for 1.5" wide tape, but I've had good success with 1". As with learning anything new, practice is important, and the best place to practice might not be at the crag right when it's your turn to climb. She's also spot on with her recommendation of the Mueller Europtape. It can be found at climbing shops here in Moab and also at Eastside Sports in Bishop. If your local shop doesn't carry it, they should.
July 15, 2013
Pop Light
The drive from Joshua Tree to Las Vegas takes one through one of the
most beautifully empty spaces in the country. After leaving 29 Palms,
the driver passes only a handful of tiny towns on their way through the
Mojave Desert. Out there things are a more surreal. So it was
with little surprise several years ago when, from a few miles away, I saw a
colorful glowing light in the empty night. When I got closer I
discovered what looked to be a Homestead Act shack ablaze with a light show.
The light show turned out to be the work of Helena Bongartz. Her art happens on Friday and Saturday nights just south of Amboy, CA. As I drove back and forth to Red Rocks many times while living in Joshua Tree I was lucky enough to see it more than once. I tried to take some pictures but my camera skills are feeble. Fortunately Vic is more capable and he was able to get a few shots on our way home from a trip to Zion.
The light show turned out to be the work of Helena Bongartz. Her art happens on Friday and Saturday nights just south of Amboy, CA. As I drove back and forth to Red Rocks many times while living in Joshua Tree I was lucky enough to see it more than once. I tried to take some pictures but my camera skills are feeble. Fortunately Vic is more capable and he was able to get a few shots on our way home from a trip to Zion.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)